Thursday, May 14, 2009

Garden Checklist

From the Fresno Bee, May 14:

Tasks
: check drip and sprinkler systems for clogs and leaks.

Pruning
: remove spent lilac flower clusters just above points where leaf buds are forming.

Fertilizing: almond, apple, cherry and plum trees.

Planting: blue marguerite (Felicia), gazania, hemerocallis; dahlia; cucumber, eggplant, okra, parsley; hydrangea; impatiens from seed.

Things to ponder: This is the month to propagate geraniums and other soft wood perennials from cuttings. [Geraniums are easy---just break a stem off, and put it in the ground (or pot) with a few inches below- and a few inches above-ground level. It will root and thrive!].

. . . . .

"Consider Salt in Water When Leaves Yellow"---Elinor Teague

In the spring plants should be green with new growth. Plants that are under stress from cultural conditions, nutrient deficiency or poor soil conditions will begin to show "stunted growth, branch and twig dieback, and yellow leaves."

Over- or under-watering are cultural conditions that can cause problems. Iron chlorosis, which can cause yellow leaves, is most often caused by over-watering. This "interferes with the plant's ability to draw up iron from the soil." Iron chelated products won't help until the water situation is fixed. "In general, landscape plants, flowers and vegetables should be watered deeply when the top inch or two of soil has dried out. Larger trees and bushes need watering when the top three to four inches of soil is dry."

When plants absorb nutrients from the soil, they also draw up water, which leads to a build-up of salts on the soil surface. If your acid-loving plants are showing signs of yellow leaves and branch die-back, "let the hose drip slowly for a day or two several times a year, thoroughly irrigating the soil." The salts will be washed down below the root zone.

A crusty film on top of the soil is another indication of salt build-up. Mulching will help slow soil moisture evaporation, therefore slowing the build-up of salts.

High alkaline or pH levels will also affect the health of plants, and adding more iron and other minerals may not help. Lowering the pH level can be done by applying sulfur at the root zone, and may need to be repeated.

[For vegetables, soil pH should be close to neutral or 7 on the pH scale of 1-14. Below 7 indicates acidity, and above 7 indicates alkalinity. There are soil kits that can be purchased at the store, or a soil sample can be taken to the county extension office for them to test. Some plants, like azaleas, camellias, hydrangeas, gardenias and blueberries, thrive in acid soil and will die in alkaline soils. Although they do like acid soils, they do not like salt buildup].

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Bad Bugs

This is a picture of a sowbug, also known as a pill bug, or roly poly bug. They are a common garden bug that may eat your plants. Children love to play with them as they don't bite and will roll into a little ball when picked up. They are of the order of isopoda (which means "balanced foot"), and the family of Oniscida (I just knew you'd want to know that!). Over the years I have cut garden articles and hints out of newspapers and magazines, keeping them in a file (OK, several files!) and I go through them every so often. I came across a garden hint about getting rid of sowbugs and decided I will try it this week, and let you know if it works in my garden. It is simple and organic, and supposedly get rid of ants, too. The magic potion is to sprinkle the plants and soil with bonemeal. That's it! Bonemeal also slowly releases nutrients into the soil, which benefits the plants. If you try this, please let me know how it works for you.

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Seedlings

Seedlings plunging into
The air, a swan-dive into
Life, bathed in sunlight.

Monday, May 11, 2009

Bryce's Garden, Then and Now!

This is a picture of my son, Bryce's, garden last November, in Bakersfield. That's him in the red shirt, and my grandkids Emily (standing), Christion (kneeling), and Sarah (in the hole!). Bryce has gardened organically in this spot for the last few years, getting better each year. He tried the lasagna method of improving his garden soil and found that it worked beautifully. He has tried self-watering grow-boxes (see in the bottom left of the picture) that he made, but the tomatoes sucked up water faster than he put it in the reservoir. He would love to have the whole back yard in vegetables, but the kids have to have someplace to play! This year he has made a box for his garden and has found great success, as you can see from the picture below (this was taken today).
This box garden is actually one box, although you can't tell because of all of the foliage. Bryce has added two pathways that go part way so he can reach all of the garden easily.

I also have found that garden boxes work well. You don't step on the planting soil and that helps the plants root systems to spread out and do their work of collecting water and nutrients. Your water and fertilizer goes just where the plants need it and not in the pathways. The soil stays nice, and the weeds stay out.

If you have a before and after picture of your garden and would like to have it on my blog, just email me with the pictures!

My To Do List . . .

Monday---Scorpio. #1 best to plant above ground plants, flowers; 2nd best to plant root crops; and good for transplanting flower bushes and vines.

Tuesday-Thursday---Sagittarius. Fairly good for planting cucumbers and onions. Not good for transplanting anything.

Friday-Sunday---Capricorn. #1 for planting root crops; 2nd best for planting flowers and above ground vegetables; and 2nd best for transplanting all crops.

My to-do list:
---weed (I think this is a year-round to-do!)
---dead-head, especially the roses and geraniums (done)
---trim front yard hedges (procrastinating!)

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Citrus Trees

Do you have an orange, lemon, lime, grapefruit, tangerine or kumquat tree? These are citrus trees. This picture is of my Valencia orange tree, which has ripe fruit from May through the first part of August.

Citrus trees need pruning and fertilizing, but their needs are different than other fruit trees, such as peaches or apples. Pruning citrus is more for shaping, and removing dead branches and twigs. Be careful when pruning so as not to expose the bark to direct sunlight, because it will easily sunburn. Not long after we moved into our present home (1985), before I knew how to properly care for citrus, I limbed-up this tree, to make it look more like a tree instead of a huge bush. I saw first-hand how bad sunburned bark can be, I thought I killed the tree. It took a couple of years for the bark to scar over, and as you can see, it is still very productive. Be careful and don't do what I did! I have two other citrus trees (see April 29th post) that I will be shaping this week.

Fertilizing citrus is done in late February and then repeated twice at six-week intervals. This is important to the health of the tree and its production of fruit.

Something that I learned this year about tangerines---if they are covered during blooming, so that the bees can't get to the blossoms, the fruit will not have any seeds. Commercially, the farmers are diligent in keeping beehives far away from their orchards, so that the tangerines that go to market are nearly seed-free. My tangerines have always been really seedy, so I will be covering my tree next spring!

Saturday, May 9, 2009

My To-Do List . . .

Today we are in Libra, which is "very good" for above ground crops.

Sunday and Monday we will be in Scorpio---#1 for above ground crops and flowers, and second best for planting root crops. It is also good for setting out fruit trees, flower bushes and vines.

---trim front yard hedges
---weed (endless!)

*full moon tonight