Bad Bugs

Remember this bug from my May 2 post? It's a Harlequin bug. I had them on my stressed-out brussels sprouts. I removed the brussels sprouts after I removed the bugs! Done deal, or so I thought! A few days ago I found one Harlequin bug on the seed head of a dandelion. I picked the seed head with the bug and took it over to bare ground so I could squish it. Their mode of defense is to drop to the ground, but otherwise seemed pretty docile. That made it easy for me to hold a bottle with some soapy water in it underneath the bug, then it drops down---and no more bug! Well, I dropped this bug onto the ground (I didn't have the bottle with me) and it ran crazy-fast, like a roach! What a shock! But, I did finally squish him.

Yesterday evening, as I strolled out in the garden (a good thing to do daily, you can see problems when they first occur) I noticed a dark thing on my bok choi plants that I let go to flower. I saw that it was a bug that resembled the Harlequin, but it was a different color. It's hard to see, but it has a bright orange dot on it's back, and orange just peeking out from under it's wings. I got my bottle of soapy water and took care of it. Then I noticed more of them. I hope I got them all! They were also on my turnips that I had let go to flower.

I had another shock when I found the same kind of bug in green! Will it never end?!? Actually, I found two green bugs. They are all from the stink bug family and do about the same kind of damage. For this reason, I will get rid of everything I have growing in my yard that is from the cole family. Hopefully, that will be the end of that. They prefer the cole crops, but will go after other things such as tomatoes. They can hang around the garden and happily multiply all year long if not eliminated.

My To Do List . . .

This week I have a few things I would like to get done in the garden---what's on your list??

---fertilize my stone fruit trees, tomatoes, carrots, roses (done)
---finish pruning the hedges (9/10 done!)
---transplant my veggie starts into larger pots (done)
---take out anything that's left from the cole crops (turnips, bok choi, etc.) [see next post above]
(done)

I finally got all of the weeds pulled from my main vegetable box and layed them on top of the soil as a mulch. It was mostly crabgrass and I caught it before it went to seed. Soon I will cover them up with flakes of straw, when I get more straw.

I didn't get the bone meal to go after the pill bugs and ants, but I plan to this week.

Planting by the moon signs:

Monday-Tuesday: Taurus---#1 for planting root crops, including peanuts; good for transplanting everything, with it being 2nd best for transplanting above ground plants.

Wednesday: Gemini---2nd best for planting root crops, above ground crops and transplanting all crops.

Thursday-Friday: Cancer---#1 for planting root crops, above ground crops and transplants.

Saturday-Monday: Leo---not good for planting or transplanting; good for killing weeds, bushes.

Fake Wasp's Nests

A friend of mine, Jill, wrote about her and her husband's new fake wasp nests (this is a picture she took). They seem to get rid of wasps in the yard, taking 3-4 days to really work. They were having a lot of trouble with the wasps making several nests around their home. The wasps would swarm and were always hovering when anyone was working in the yard. There were the occasional stings, which would put a damper on enjoying the outdoors.

These fake nests work on the principle of competition. "If they see a wasp nest in yard they will go elsewhere to make a nest." After putting up four fake wasp nests, two in the front yard and two in the back yard, they are now wasp-free.

As Jill said:
---No chemicals
---Environmentally safe
---No maintenance
---No dead wasps

Just the way we like it!

She said that fake wasp nests can be found at home improvement stores, such as Lowe's. Her's are called "Bee Free Natural Wasp Deterrent," and come in packages of two for $8.99---a small price to pay for safety in the yard!

Potential Dangers in the Garden

From the Fresno Bee, May 23:

When considering a garden, make sure you know which plants are poisonous and which ones aren't, especially when you have children, visiting grandchildren, cats or dogs. Children and dogs are more likely to be poisoned.

Some plants cause skin reactions and some need to be taken internally to be toxic. One interesting thing to consider: a dog may be resistant to poison ivy, but could get it on it's coat and transfer it to a person.

Two websites that have lists of toxic and nontoxic plants:
--- http://www.mnpoison.org
--- http://www.library.uiuc.edu/vex/toxic/comlist.htm

Another problem to watch for is the use of chemicals used for lawn and plant care [ie--fertilizers, insecticides]. Read and follow package instructions carefully when you use these products. "If you apply liquids or granular products that are watered in, the lawn should be dry before animals are allowed on it." Any baits used for insects [ie--snail or ant bait] may be tempting, as well as toxic, to cats and dogs.

. . . . .

Gard'n Judy here---you can avoid the above chemical problems if you use organic products. Please read the package instructions, there may be specific ways to use the product. I know that Sluggo (bait for snails and slugs) won't harm children, pets, or the birds that eat the slugs that ate the Sluggo; and that the snails and slugs do, indeed, eat it.

Breads and Biscuits

O, weary mothers mixing dough,
Don't you wish that food would grow?
Your lips would smile I know to see
A cookie bush or a pancake tree.
--from "Depression Era Recipes"

Garden Checklist

From the Fresno Bee, May 21, 2009:

"Heat Works Against Powdery Mildew"
by Elinor Teague

Here in the valley, we have less fungal diseases, because our late spring and summer seasons are dryer than other areas (our main rainfall is in February and March). Although, these last few weeks we seem to be having more problems with powdery mildew, which attacks many different plants. [This picture shows powdery mildew on one of my crape myrtles].

The spores of powdery mildew are carried by the wind from plant to plant. "The first signs of powdery mildew generally appear as a white, powdery substance covering new leaves and shoots. The new leaves and shoots become stunted and distorted."

Powdery mildew can become a serious problem "to the health of woody plants and trees such as sycamores and crape myrtles." The trees' food supply is reduced when the infected leaves fall off, and the branches may be more exposed to sunburn. Smaller plants may be killed when badly infected with powdery mildew.

On the positive side, powdery mildew can't survive temperatures of 95' or more. Treatment can be as easy as spraying a strong spray of water from the hose on the infected areas. "Infected new growth on susceptible varieties of tender-stemmed plants such as begonias and roses can be trimmed back."

Another solution could be the use of horticultural oils, jojoba oil and neem oil, which are less toxic. These oils both prevent and eradicate powdery mildew. There are fungicides that prevent powdery mildew, but they are more toxic. They must be applied before signs of the fungus or at the very earliest stages, are not to be applied when temperatures are above 90', and several applications are needed.

The only sure solution is our summer heat, which will eliminate most of the powdery mildew.

. . . . .

Tasks: use a 3" layer of mulch around trees and shrubs to retain moisture, supress weeds and cool soil temperature.

Pruning: remove suckers on roses and fruit trees.

Fertilizing: a little used more often is better than a lot at one time.

Planting: Russian sage (Perovskai), gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia); fortnight lily (Dietes); potatoes, tomatoes; abutilon; plant from seed---petunia, marigold, black-eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia alata).

Miscellaneous: scale insects are easy to control with horticultural oil (insecticides work also, but I'd go the natural route with the horticultural oil), repeat in June

The Garden of the Sun

The Master Gardeners of Fresno County maintain a demonstration garden near the corner of McKinley on Winery, and is located south of the Discovery Center. This garden shows examples of growing many different plants, shrubs and trees for the home landscape. The picture above is of the "All America" Garden showing plants selected from this and past years. The All America selections are various new flower and vegetable seeds that have been grown in trials in various parts of the United States, and have been found to be easy to grow, pest- and disease-resistant, and can be grown in many different climates.



This is a picture of the Cottage Garden. There are many different kinds of flowers that can be included in such a garden, and they are easy to grow, too. There is quite a variety of flowers in this corner bed.


Here we see part of the Patio Pot (container) Garden, which showcases flowers. There are many different kinds of containers in various sizes---something for everyone!


This last picture is of part of the Perennial Garden. Perennials are those plants that die back each winter, and return to grow and bloom the next spring.

Lest you think all they have are flowers, that is not the case. They have quite a Vegetable Garden covering several raised beds. I didn't get a picture of that because they are newly planted with summer vegetables and weren't as showy as the flowers! Other gardens they showcase are:
---Small Space Garden
---No Barriers Garden
---Sun/Shade Garden
---Low Maintenance Garden
---Herb Garden
---Children's Garden (children can go through the maze; see, touch and smell plants)
---fruit trees are scattered all over the garden, plus in an orchard
---Berry Garden (boysenberries, raspberries, blueberries)
---Vineyard

The Master Gardeners also hold classes here, with a minimum cost (twice a year there is a vegetable class that is free), on Wednesday and some Saturday mornings. To sign up to be on the mailing list for these classes go to http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/survey/survey.cfm?surveynumber=915&back=none . For more information or class registration, call UCCE at (559) 456-7285 or the Garden of the Sun at (559) 456-4151.

The Garden of the Sun is open Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 9 am - 1 pm, and is staffed by Master Gardener volunteers. There is no charge to walk through the garden. If you would like a tour, it is $2 per person. All you have to do is go through the front gate and a Master Gardener will give you a tour. Otherwise, you can wander on your own. The grounds are connected to the Discovery Center, but to use those facilities you need to go through the Discovery Center building and pay a slight fee (which also includes a visit to the Garden of the Sun).

The Garden of the Sun is located at 1944 N. Winery; phone (559) 456-4151; online at http://mgfresno.ucdavis.edu . Master Gardener Hotline: 559-456-7563.