Sunday, May 31, 2009

Growing Tomatoes in Containers

Today, my friend, John, asked me about growing tomatoes in containers. I thought others might also be interested.

This is a picture of one of my Roma tomatoes that I planted in a container that a fruit tree came in. I have found that it is too small for the tomato, although the plants (I have 4 such pots) are growing nicely, with one already to the top of our fence. I planted nasturtiums along the front of the pots so they would grow over the edge and shade it---they didn't make it!.

Tomato plants grow to different sizes and can be grown in many different kinds of containers. The smaller the tomato plant, the smaller the container. Just be sure that there are holes in the bottom of the container for drainage.

The smaller tomato plants are called patio or pixie and won't need staking. These tomatoes are made for growing in containers. They produce small to medium size fruits, depending on the plants you choose.

The medium size tomato plants are called determinant and need a larger container. Determinant plants grow to about 3-4' normally. Most of their fruit will ripen over a shorter period of time. This size may need a little support, just watch it as it grows.

The larger tomato plants are called indeterminate and can grow to 6' or more. Indeterminate means that it will keep growing and producing fruit. They defiantly need staking or a heavy wire cage; and require the largest size containers. Half of a whisky barrel would be big enough. Or, if the look of the container won't be a problem, a 5 gal. construction bucket from Lowe's or Home Depo would work.

There are also different kinds of self-watering containers that can be purchased. Google self-watering containers and it will show those that could be made at home.

Soil for tomato containers is fairly simple. You can go the MircleGro way, with the plant food and other stuff included. Or, you can go the organic route and use organic potting soil, plus a couple scoops of organic compost, and 1 tablespoon of lime (for calcium) per large container (or use egg shells). Either way, the containers will probably need to be watered every day. When the high heat of July hits, they will likely need to be watered twice a day. Drippers would take care of this chore easily. A layer of grass clippings over the top of the container soil would help keep the soil moist. Fertilizing would need to be done with light feedings every week or so. With this much watering, a lot of the nutrients are being washed away.

Make sure that the tomato plants have at least 6-8 hours of sun. The container might need shade from the sun, with either plants in front of it, or a board or something like that to keep the sun from cooking the roots. Light-colored containers won't have such a problem.

One more thing---when the daytime temperatures hit 95' the tomato blossoms will start to drop without being fertilized. The plants will begin to bloom again in August, and will produce a fall crop that might even extend until Thanksgiving (depending if we have an early frost or not).

2 comments:

  1. I'm sure glad John asked you this tomato question because your post definately answered my questions and fear of planting anything. Can't wait for tomorrow to go out & buy tomato growing supplies! Thanks Judy.

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